Interviewing Sunil Sethi, the visionary Chairperson of the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), reveals a narrative that transcends the mere threads of fashion. From the inception of FDCI to the recently concluded LFW x FDCI in October 2023, Sethi reflects on the legacy he envisioned and the industry trends that continue to captivate.

In an era where fashion is a global language, Sethi discusses the evolution of the industry, touching upon themes of customization, personalization, and the seismic shift brought about by corporate investments from giants like Reliance Brands and Aditya Birla Group.

As the interview unfolds, Sethi paints a vivid picture of the Indian fashion scene—its triumphs, challenges, and the promise of a future where FDCI continues to be at the forefront, nurturing new talent and shaping the industry’s ever-evolving landscape.

How does it feel when you look at the legacy that you have created? Did you ever think of it, when you were just starting?

When I first started, my focus was to create a distinct global and equally important domestic footprint for Indian designers. To also unite the industry, and to craft a special edition for the largest money spinner couture—thus the inception of the India Couture Week, which saw an overwhelming response. We wanted to cater to various verticals, so we launched the Men’s Fashion Week, with a successful edition in Goa this year. The Designer Stockroom we began has helped increase the profitability in a recession-strapped market.

As the journey unfolded, the impact and resonance of the Fashion Design Council of India’s initiatives surpassed my initial expectations. Witnessing the growth, innovation, and global recognition within the Indian fashion landscape is immensely gratifying. It is a testament to the collective efforts of the industry, designers, and FDCI team. I must admit that our partnership with Lakmé Fashion Week was reignited once again with the need to blur geographical boundaries at the start of the pandemic. We have continued this endeavor to create greater opportunities for talent in the Indian fashion industry. It’s a great collaboration for the fashion fraternity and I must acknowledge the constant support we receive from Lakmé and Reliance Brands.

Tell us something about the recently concluded season of LFW x FDCI in October 2023. Which industry trend surprised or impressed you and what are the key trends for 2023? ·

We began the journey with Sanjay Garg’s Raw Mango and moved on to established names as well as designers who have just forayed into this space. Pearl Academy embarked on a remarkable journey to celebrate the country’s successful mission to the moon with — “Moon’s Echo” this season. · Pero’s unique show with Aneeth Arora’s creative talent impressed me a lot.

We also are eco-conscious as an industry considering the waste fashion generates globally, so the Sustainable Fashion Day, had a Circular Design Challenge, with new labels creating the mood for a better tomorrow. But being an avid lover of art, we pioneered the “Fashion Wears Art” concept, bringing together leading artists and designers with the canvas to runway presentation. The collaboration between designers and artists, curated by Shalini Passi and mentored by me, was a meeting point of two verticals of innovative thinking, and expression.

Fashion is now more relatable, it has understood the need for simplicity, it has ended sizeism, and has channeled multi-purpose use. What we observed was the resurgence of white as a metaphor for both beauty and austerity, this year. It is quiet, and impactful, undoubtedly the colour of the season.

Consumers are not looking at trends, rather they choose timelessness and elegance, over subscribing to ‘what’s in’. Whether it is dhoti pants, Retro revival, or the return to subdued shine, everything has a minimalist approach with a definitive shift towards creating a unisex wardrobe.

How do you think fashion has evolved over the years?

The evolution is not just in the garments themselves but also in the way we perceive and engage with fashion. With the advent of globalization and the rise of digital media, boundaries have blurred, and fashion has become a global language, transcending cultural barriers.

Customisation and personalisation are now key to dressing—look at the way Indian designers are now creating a line of ski wear, who would have imagined this ten years ago?

Or Rahul Mishra making our presence felt at the fashion capital of the world! The innovation with the drape of the sari to make it appealing to a younger audience has seen a seismic shift in this genre. More importantly, the advent of corporatisation, and investment by companies that will help expand the designer business—Reliance Brands and Aditya Birla Group have been game changers.

How do you think social media is making fashion week/shows more relevant?

Social media has emerged as a transformative force in the world of fashion, significantly amplifying the relevance and impact of fashion weeks and shows. The immediacy and accessibility provided by platforms like Instagram have reshaped the way we perceive and engage with these events. ·

Firstly, social media has democratized access to velvet-roped events. In the past, these events were exclusive, with limited attendees. Now, live streams, behind-the-scenes content, and real-time updates allow a global audience to participate virtually, breaking down traditional barriers and making fashion more inclusive.

I also feel there is a flip side to this—being a traditionalist, fashion consumption is now super-fast, and the longing for anticipation as well as mystery has vanished.

How are Indian couturiers reinventing themselves?

Couture today has evolved to meet the changing preferences of a more independent and free-thinking bride, someone who is financially empowered, and values traditions while adding her unique touch. Couture extends beyond bridal wear; it encompasses occasion wear and red carpet ensembles. There is a focus on creating versatile, functional occasion wear with timeless appeal. The prevailing theme is embracing the vintage, where designers repurpose older pieces, and infuse new creations with nostalgic memories.

Comfort has become synonymous with bridal wear. Lehengas now feature practical additions like pockets, and dupattas are making way for veils and trails. There is the introduction of a fresh aesthetic, while ruffles and faux feathers are taking the spotlight over traditional embellishments like zardozi and dabka.

The colour palette is also evolving, with pastels becoming a popular choice, creating a distinct departure from the traditional reds and rani pinks. Individuality and functionality are the two most important aspects.

Do you think we have revived from the setback that Covid had on the fashion industry?

Post-pandemic we are witnessing a change in how collections are being produced, there is a slower and more mindful approach designers are taking to the pieces that they are designing. The first thing most designers did was establish websites to communicate to a digital audience.

The return to the physical showroom format, allowing customers and buyers to purchase designer clothing now being put up for sale also helped growth tremendously. The FDCI began the Covid Support Fund to help struggling labels and also began the second and third tranches offering support at the time of crisis.

How do you ensure local artisans are getting their due?

The first step is through specific designer showcases dedicated to working together with artisans, we provide a curated platform for designers, who prioritize collaboration with local artisans. The FDCI has worked extensively with the Ministry of Textiles as well as the Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) to create collections soaked in Indian crafts, weaves as well and khadi. Our designers also showcased at the G 20 event recently so really, we have grown by leaps and bounds. We have showcased Indian true treasure at the most historic venues—from Red Fort to IIM Ahmedabad, even the Old Currency Building in Kolkata among others, these presentations have been multi-city to spread the word. KVIC also awarded young designers who are elevating crafts through work with clusters and weaving centers.

Along with the Ministry of Textiles, we collaborated to reimagine handloom weavers through skill development, there have been many firsts.

What’s next for FDCI?

We have just touched the tip of the iceberg. There are miles to go yet. We are committed to nurturing new talent and providing a platform to showcase their creativity. We believe in cultivating the next generation of visionaries who will contribute to the ever-evolving landscape of the industry.